Vatican in the background
 <Callie>  Chow (Ciao)!  Our family had a wonderful time in Rome! So many things to do, see and taste! We rented an Airb&b for the time we were there - it was small but it worked. There was a little upstairs/loft and also a little loft with a bed. The kitchen was about the size of an airplane bathroom. The temperature was close to 100 degrees the whole time we were there and the AC worked just a little bit.
Our AirBNB
     My favorite part of the apartment was the elevator.  It was the coolest and oldest elevator I've ever seen.  It was made around 1905!!! You had to manually open and close the door and you could open the door while it was in motion (even though you weren't supposed to).  I loved it!  If I was bored I would just ride it for fun!  It was really loud though.
     Let's get to the interesting part, the food. The food was amazing! The pizza, the spaghetti and gnoochi, and I'll never forget the delicious gelato! Every night we went to bed with a full stomach and a voice in our head saying why did you eat that last slice of pizza, the third ice cream cone (DAD!), the big bowl of spaghetti.


     I loved how there were so many things to do and see, everyday we had a new plan! We went to the Colosseum one day and it was cool because you always see so  many pictures of it.  Then you saw it and it was so big and amazing. Fortunately, we got our tickets at a little corner with a very little line other than the very very long line for tickets at the Colosseum.

     When we got in it felt like you were transported back to the time it was used.  The Colosseum was used for fighting against Gladiators and animals like tigers and hippos.  Inside was a huge stadium where people would come to watch the fights.   Under the stage floor you could see lifts and secret passageways where animals and gladiators would come out of the floor. It was very amazing!

Pantheon
Pantheon Dome
     We went to the Pantheon which is a church with the biggest unsupported dome in the world.  At the top of the dome there is a big hole purposefully put there and if it rains, the water comes right inside the Pantheon.  The floor is slightly slanted so the water runs right out to the drainage system that was part of the original design.  I thought it was interesting.
   
We had a tour of the Vatican one day and the guide brought us around to see Michaelangelo and Raphael's art in the Sistine Chapel and also in St. Peter's Basilica.  When we stepped into St. Peter's, I couldn't believe how big and beautiful it was.
St Peter's Square - Vatican.  So close to our place!


St Peter's Basilica
 In the dome of the church you could see a little person up in it; they looked really small and gave me perspective for how huge it is.  Our guide pointed  to a window and said that if the window was opened, the Pope was in Rome.  He was!
     Rome was my favorite place we visited.  I had a wonderful time!
Palatine Hills - ancient Roman ruins
Our great friends - Post Belgium

Ella, Thomas, Callie & Camryn - Tiger area - France Zoo


<Derik> We landed a bit tired after our one hour flight from Koh Samui to Bankok and 12 hour flight from Bangkok to Zurich Switzerland.  The time change wasn’t as bad as we had previously, only 5 hours.

A super quick dash through customs and snatched up the bags, a local sim card, and rental car pick-up, and we were on to a local hotel for the evening.

No Santa sightings
The next morning we were up at 6:00am (no alarm necessary, thank you time change) and were on the road by 7:45am.  Driving in Europe is a piece of cake, although my manual shift clutch work took a an hour or two (and a sore neck) to smooth out. 

You tend to forget the geography of Europe is a lot different than home.  Over the course of the drive from Zurich to Post, Belgium, we left Switzerland into France.  We decided to take a 20 minute detour and travel into Germany where we had lunch in a cute little village named St. Nikolas.  We went to a small restaurant for some schnitzel and beer which was great.

The Blockhaus restaurant -  Germany
From Germany we made a quick drive through Luxembourg and then to Post, Belgium where we met with Annaleen and Jacque and their children, Nicholas, Thomas, and Ella.  It had been far too long since we’d seen them and to have both families together was truly memorable.  Amazing meals, wine, laughs, and a trip to a great zoo made for a tremendous visit.

Sleeping is hard work
cheese fondue - Laussane, Switzerland
Fondue in a 300 year old resturant
Breakfast - Post Belgium
We then were off to Lausanne, Switzerland on the shore of Lake Geneva/Leman.  It is a gorgeous city on a great lake.  We took a ferry across the lake to Evian, France for a crepe lunch, toured the Olympic museum, rented a peddle-boat with a slide on it and went out into the lake for swim to cool off as it has been in the mid 90’s here.  We wrapped up our time with a farewell dinner of cheese fondue and some great beer which was amazing even in light of the high temperatures.
On the Lake and cooling off! - Lausanne, Switzerland

View from Olympiqu museum - Laussane, Switzerland

Crepes in Evian, France


We are off to Geneva by car, dropping off the rental, and then heading to Rome by air.  Here we go!





Our Hotel's Beach!

<Cathy>  Koh Samui is an island off the East coast of Thailand – what a great place to relax and play!  It’s plenty tropical, very relaxed, and all about slowing down and taking life as it comes.  We stayed on Choeng Mon beach –Northeast corner of the island.  It was significantly quieter than other parts of the island, yet with enough restaurants and action to keep it fun.  We were right on the beach and spend most days deciding whether we would hang poolside or beachside – tough choices I know! 
Thai Foot Massages
There are Thai massages offered everywhere.  If you’ve never had a Thai massage, it’s a cross between a massage, sports stretching regime, and acrobatic routine.  Don’t be deceived…these petite Thai women can pack a powerful blow.  I’m pretty sure we all had a foot massage or Thai massage every day we were in Koh Samui and it felt amazing!  They run about 200-250 Thai baht for an hour massage – roughly $6-$7.50.  
On Thursday, we caught a 10 minute ride into center town and just hung out at the beach while the kids bodysurfed the day away.  Such a fun and relaxing day for all of us.  We haven’t seen temps below 85 degrees since leaving Minnesota and at the heat of the day, it was mid to upper 90s most of the time.  The water was pretty warm and salty, but still refreshing. 
Night Market!

Jet Skiing in the Gulf of Thailand

On Wednesday night, we walked around the little town and much to our surprise, there was a night market and the town had sprung to life!  Food vendors, jewelry, lanterns, incense and essential oils, etc.  I tried these sweet & sour peanut pot stickers – and had to go back for seconds.  They steam the wrap on a piece of plastic wrap stretched across a boiling pot of water.  Next add the filling, gently close it up and serve with a sprinkling of toasted garlic.  Seriously good eats.


<Callie> July 10th - Today was definitely my favorite day in Koh Samui for many reasons, one was that I turned 12!  Here’s how the day went: we woke up, went to town and stopped at a Starbucks to get breakfast.  After that, I decided I wanted to explore the town a little more, so we went and walked around for a while then took a Saong tow (Truck/Taxi) back to the resort. We rented a jet ski and we each got 20 minutes to ride. It was really fun, especially in the ocean!


Afterwards, Camryn and I swam in the ocean for only a minute.  Then mom and dad brought us to a little boat which brought us to a big catamaran boat with sails.  There were 3 men on the boat named Bernie- Captain, Fred-Helped with sails, and Phillip- the cook. They would take us on a 6 hour boat ride around the islands!  Camryn and I had no idea, what a great surprise! 
Callie at the helm!
Birthday Kisses!

Phillip made us some really great snacks and also a surprise Oreo birthday cake! They took us to a private beach area.   We didn’t go on the beach but we jumped off the side of the boat and had a good time…except for one thing.  Every time you jumped off the boat in a matter of seconds little dots of pain would come to you.  We all assumed it was from the saltwater but it was painful and felt like something was burning you. We asked Bernie what it was and he said it was little plankton or jellyfish attaching to you that caused the pain!  They brought us back and we watched the sunset then said our goodbyes. 

Elephant Spray Down
<Cathy>    Sawadee!  We are loving our adventures in Thailand, despite each of us having a sick day - one after the other.  How we managed to avoid feeling crummy on travel days escapes me, but I'll point toward good karma for that.  Chiang Mai is a really vibrant city - tight connection to nature and the environment, strong commercial growth and expansion, with friendly, laid-back people.  We stayed in an Airbnb condo outside of the main square of the city so we relied on the local transportation, SaongTaos and TukTuks, to get around.  A saongtao is basically a pickup truck with an enclosed passenger area that fits 8 travelers on 2 long benches.  Like a taxi, you hail one, negotiate the price (interestingly they start with a better price for women than men), then climb through the doorway in the back and hang on tight!  Seriously, driving in Thailand is insane.  I counted over 15 tourists walking on the street just today with scraped up legs, elbows, and arms - clearly from scooter mishaps.  I think I'll leave driving to those that grew up in Thailand, thank you very much.

 One day, we had reservations to go into the country to a local market and farm to learn how to cook authentic Thai food.  Camryn was down and out that day, so it was just Callie and I.  We had our own exposure to the market via our guide where Callie and I tried Century Eggs or 1,000 year old eggs - think hard boiled eggs that are fermented in all kinds of stuff for 45 days.  The egg white is brown, gelatinous, and salty while the yolk is greenish, a little fishy and pasty.  Honestly, I thought it would be worse and can actually see  how the flavor would grow on you...over time people!

Callie cooking up a storm

 Amazing Thai Soup
Once Callie and I were in the country, we toured the garden then began to cook.  We made Tom Yun Goon soup (my personal fave), curry paste, green and yellow chicken curry, spring rolls, pad thai, and mango with sticky rice.  We were so full by the end of the day, but the food was absolutely amazing and the steps surprisingly simple.  The trick is fresh, fragrant ingredients.  Callie was a pro at rolling and frying up the spring rolls - ask her to make them for you some time!  It was cool to learn from a scratch Thai cook and make our own creations in an outdoor kitchen.




Steps up to the Wat Phra That Doi

Catmosphere Cafe
Another day, we took a ride up the mountainside to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a beautiful Buddhist temple from the 1300s overlooking Chiang Mai.  The temples here are so steeped in stories and traditions - quite an experience.  When the kids had their fill of Chaing Mai history, they convinced us to visit the Catmosphere Cafe - 3 blocks from "home".  So what is the Catmosphere cafe, you dare ask??  As you might have guessed, there are about 20+ cats inside a cafe that you play with while enjoying an afternoon tea.  It was clean and actually better than I anticipated.  A few really interesting felines and it helped the girls not miss Oreo (our kitty) so much.  They had a blast!

On the 4th of July, we took for the mountains again, this time to enjoy a day as an elephant caretaker.  It was definitely a highlight for all of us - and a bit of a life-changer I might add.  This was not a zoo, but instead a preserve focused on protecting and rehabbing rescued elephants and reversing their declining populations.  There were no fences and we were quickly



immersed in caring for and learning about what it takes to keep elephants able to live their full lives (about 85 years).  We arrived and quickly began to interact with two new baby elephants (2 and 3 months old) and their moms.  I was a bit anxious about how they would feel with having humans around, but I had nothing to fear.








The babies were very playful and quite adorable - one ran alongside Callie looking to have a little fun nudging here with its trunk.  They mimicked their moms, pretending to eat bananas and the foliage - so cute!  We were each assigned an elephant (mine was named Mejung - a 30 year old female) and we were to care for them for the day - feeding, health inspection, cleaning, washing, and exercising them.  They are most gentle, wise, and family oriented animals I've ever encountered.  Learning about their bonds and watching how they would communicate with each other was spellbinding.  How anyone could harm these beautiful giants is beyond me.  Humans are their predators and yet they need our protection.  We all had just an amazing day!

Intricate carvings made of soap
Sunday Night Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is known for its markets - food, clothing, household goods, tourist stuff, you name it.  We hit the Sunday night market where they close down a busy street in center city and all the vendors come to sell their wares.  At this market in particular, you can find high quality, traditional Thai items, and great prices.   We loved bargaining for our touristy purchases, plus there were a few food vendors with some awesome smelling offerings - definitely worth the visit!

What I love about Thailand is the people and the food.  Thais are a quiet, respectful bunch, but if you make an effort to talk with them and joke around, they absolutely come to life, with beautiful smiles, happiness, and some giggles as well.  There is a secret they must share about living a happy life because they all seem to ascribe to it.

Big thanks to Jesse, Ashley, Alec, and Nicole for the fantastic suggestions on our Thailand visit.  Next we head to Southern Thailand, an island off the east coast called Koh Samui.  See you there!
Siem Reap Market
<Camryn> My favorites of the day are definitely not all good ones! But ones that i will remember for a very long time!  To start off the day, we headed to a small home where they made fresh tofu.  The tofu looked a little unappetizing, but I had no idea what to expect.  It was very interesting to see most of the family working together to make the tofu.  One of them was pounding the soybeans with bare fists and making bean paste.  The others were cooking, pressing, and finally cutting the uneven sides off to let us taste.  It smelled very bad like weird soggy bread.  Next our tour guide, Dani, told us to try a piece.  The couple from New Zealand that we were having our tour with grabbed a very big piece.  Dad grabbed a big one too but not as big.  I grabbed just a nibble :-)  It tasted like a flavorless spongey bread...which is not great.
Camryn tries Tofu

We headed back to our tuk tuk and went to the market.  The first thing that hits you was the smell.  It starts out smelling bad and then it actually gets worse in the meat section.  We kept walking through foreign interesting fruits then stopped at a stand for breakfast.  I was surprised when they served us noodles with duck egg.   Just like the tofu house, I was a little unsure of what to think of for the taste, but I tried it and it was not bad!  As we started getting to the end of the market, we stopped for a little snack.  It was ginger tofu which did not look appetizing.  We tried a small piece and it tasted like coconut and dad and I really liked it a lot!  As we were trying new fruits, two 3-year old boys missing their clothes ran up to their mom at the jackfruit stand.  I couldn't help but laugh.

Making Incense 
I also stopped at a small house in the country where I rolled incense with an 85 year old woman.  Rolling incense was a really cool experience.  It was hard because you had to do two things with your hands at once to keep the dough even.  When I thought I had it right, I would give it to the woman but she would have to fix it every time.  As someone else was rolling incense,  I played with the puppies that were running around the yard.

The next house is were we got our cupping done.  At first I was sure I was not doing it but when the other couple did it then my dad, I decided I'd regret not doing it so I took it easy and got one cup.

And that pretty much concluded my favorite highlights of the tour!

Dani and Camryn
<Derik>  Camryn and I spent the better part of the day with Dani (an expat from the US) who accompanied the two of us for the better part of a day going (way) off the beaten path and seeing a more local view of Siem Reap.  (Callie was under the weather and stayed back with Cathy)

We met up with Dani and a couple from New Zealand in a pair of Tuk Tuks at 7:00AM and off we went to see tofu being made.  It is an interesting process and this was about as handmade as you can get.  One guy mashing up the raw by hand and another pressing and cutting shortly thereafter.  I took a bit and Camryn tried a nibble but was unimpressed.  This whole process took place in a side room of a families home and they sell to local restaurants and hotels.

For those who haven't ventured into a true outdoor Asian market, it is an all out assault on your senses.  The sights and smells range anywhere from amazing to gut wrenching and typically in a range of seconds.  We had a great breakfast of rice noodles, veggies, and a fried duck egg and washed it all down with a glass of soy milk.  It was really good. This was Camryn's first foray into the market locals use for daily meals and I have to say I was impressed with her fortitude to try new foods and drinks.  She really has grown her adventurous side and willingness to go spicier throughout the trip.  Dani wanted to show us an authentic way of life for Cambodian culture - unfiltered for tourists.  If you're at all squeamish or an animal lover, the rest of this post is not for you.

Skinned bats ready for lunch
The rest of the day was filled with a trip out in the country area off the beaten path and off the paved roads for that matter.  Camryn was able to roll hand made incense with an 85 year-old woman who has been doing this for 60 years.  We saw rice noodles and spring rolls being made from scratch in peoples homes.  There was a stop at a street side seller of dog meat.  In Cambodia, if it has four or two legs it gets eaten...except the table (their joke).  We saw fish traps and grass mats being built.

BBQ Dog

The cup aftermath
We also stopped at a little hut where the local woman does cupping.  It is the practice of lighting the inside of glass dome and putting it out when it hits your back.  The theory is that while its on your skin it is drawing the toxins out.  Does it work?  Who knows, but it provided a very exciting time.  Camryn went for 1 cup, I did 3 and the couple we were with did 16 and 27 cups!  It feels like a big pinch and the aftermath leaves a bright red spot which stays around for at least a few days.

We finished off the day at a museum dedicated to the history of the Cambodia and how difficult a go it has been not only from foreign powers but internal insurrections.

All in all a great day and as the final full day in Cambodia.  We would definitely come back to Cambodia again.  The people, food, and sights are all amazing.
Rice noodles on a banana leaf fresh from the being made